June 4, 2012
Jess Eccher, a rising senior on the Vanderbilt swimming team, participated in the University’s Maymester program, studying in Perugia, Italy. In this entry, she provides her final periodic update on her experience for VUCommodores.com. Eccher is majoring in History of Art with a minor in History of Architecture and Corporate Strategy. She was in Perugia to study History of Art and Raphael and the Renaissance.
Eccher’s Maymester Photo Gallery | Blog One | Blog Two
Monday, May 21-Wednesday, May 23
These past three days have consisted of normal class at sessions at the Umbra Institute followed by torrential downpours. Unbelievably, these were our last three days of class (at the Umbra Institute) in preparation for our exam tomorrow. While the rain unfortunately limited our ability to make the most of our last bit of time in Perugia, in hindsight, the bad weather was probably a blessing in disguise and beneficial (in terms of our grades) as we had no choice, but to study instead of being out and about, distracted by Italy and its offerings.
Thursday, May 24
Today was my last official day of classes at the Umbra Institute where I completed a final exam on the course material learned. Class ended around noon and marked the beginning of our free weekend in Europe! Besides feeling as though a weight was lifted from our shoulders (in regards to school work), the sun decided to emerge from its hibernation! The weather we had today was absolutely beautiful and was everything you would envision a summer day in Italy to be. In order to enjoy the sunshine, my friends and I attended “aperitivo”, the equivalent of American “Happy Hour” where you sit outside, people-watch, and munch on appetizers to rev up your appetite for dinner…..a great way to begin our long weekend and celebrate the conclusion of our classroom studies and final.
Friday, May 25
Our first independent trip during this “free weekend” was to the Tuscan city of Cortona. Out of the many potential places to visit in Italy, the group I travelled with decided on this location based on high recommendations, its beauty and the fact it was the location of where “Under the Tuscan Sun” was filmed. The rolling hills, colorful pottery and outdoor cafes were nothing short of what I had envisioned Tuscany to look like…all which made for the perfect day. After catching an evening train back to our home base of Perugia, my friends and I met up with our professor to enjoy a traditional and “very extended” dinner on the piazza of Perugia (located in prime “restaurant real estate” due to the views it offered, both scenically and for people watching).
Saturday, May 26
After catching an early morning train, my friends and I ventured out to the quaint hill town of Orvieto. Rather than having an agenda, we just wandered aimlessly through the city, soaking up the Italian countryside. As a result of our meandering, we happened to stumble upon one of the city’s hidden gems, a toy store and workshop called “Il Mago Di Oz” or “The Wizard of Oz”. We met the master toymaker, Giuseppe Rosella, the “Wizard” himself, who was kind enough to give us a personal tour of his tiny shop. The studio’s interior was nothing short of magical, filled with the most whimsical, handcrafted creations like snow globes, toy carousels, and other unique pieces. We all marveled over the “toys” and walls that were adorned with pictures of Giuseppe and numerous famous visitors, his “VIP Gallery”. I absolutely fell in love with this adorable shop and the hill town of Oriveto. After this trip, I think it is safe to say, we have officially mastered the European train system as everything went on without a hitch. While initially planning our “free weekend” in foreign cities was a bit frightening, it was one of the most liberating experiences…especially when it all went so smoothly and successfully!
Sunday, May 27
Today marked my official last day of living in Perugia. After a final group visit to the famous Perugian Augusta chocolate shop and a wonderful dinner at ” De Cesarino,” the restaurant where our European adventures all began, we headed to Gambrinus’ Gelateria, our favorite spot in Perugia. I am happy to report that we did indeed receive our free gelato, courtesy of our numerous visits. The entire day was absolutely wonderful and I couldn’t think a better way to spend our final time in Perugia.
Monday, May 28
This morning, we departed for Rome to conclude the rest of the Maymester program! Our first stop in the “Eternal City” was the architectural masterpiece, the Roman Pantheon. I had been looking forward to visiting this monumental temple as I have studied it extensively. All the hype surrounding the building as one of “architectural excellence” is, perhaps, an understatement. Upon entering, I was blown away by the coffered ceilings, marble work and of course, the famous oculus (it actually rained this day in Rome and we were able to see the rain enter through the opening in the ceiling). After leaving the Pantheon, we trekked through Rome to get a better sense of the city, stopping at multiple churches that housed important frescoes and altarpieces from the Renaissance. After finishing up our tour, we were on our own to discover Rome.
Tuesday, May 29
Our first full day in Rome was one that was extremely busy in terms of touring. The morning began with “part one” of the Vatican tours where we viewed countless Renaissance masterpieces, one after the other. Perhaps one of the most renowned rooms in the Vatican museum we viewed housed Raphael’s “School of Athens” and its counterpart, the “Disputa”, two paintings that are extremely crucial to the history of art. Yet, in my opinion, in terms of the art, the best was definitely saved for last. Our last study within the complex was Michelangelo’s renowned Sistine Ceiling and Last Judgment, both located in the Papal Chapel of the Vatican museum. The height of the ceiling and complex story line, let alone the obvious skill of Michelangelo, made the viewing almost overwhelming to grasp everything. Words and even pictures cannot describe how magnificent this ceiling is. From here, we were dismissed so my friends and I quickly set out to visit all the touristy and essential landmarks of the city. We may have overdone it a bit as we hightailed it to the Trevi Fountain, the Coliseum, the Roman Forum, Trajan’s Column and Arch of Constantine, all within the span of a few hours. Needless to say, we were completely worn out by the end of the day.
Wednesday, May 30
Today concluded our touring of the Vatican where we focused on the “Pinacoteca” or Paintings Gallery which houses the work of Giotto, Fra Angelico, Perugino, Da Vinci and many other Renaissance artists. After finishing up the tour of the gallery, we proceeded to St. Peter’s Basilica and Piazza to discuss the architectural plans for the structure and to study Michelangelo’s Dome and designs for the Piazza. Upon our arrival however, we were met with a bit of a surprise as the Pope decided to make an appearance at the piazza. While this ultimately thwarted our intended discussion of the space, the trip into the interior, and our ascension of the Dome due to the overwhelming crowds, I’d say it was a completely fair trade off as not many people get to see the Pope in person, let alone while in the Vatican piazza.
Thursday, May 31
Our class departed for the Villa Farnesina to see Raphael’s frescoes, specifically his two famous works, the “Loggia of Psyche” and the “Galatea.” After leaving the villa, we stumbled onto a piazza with a farmer’s market where my friends and I decided to grab lunch while admiring the local farmers’ produce, pastas, and spices. From here, we hopped onto the “mini” public buses to get to our final class tour at the Villa Borghese. The trip there honestly felt like a ride at Disney as the little bus weaved in and out of the Italian alleyways and sped over the uneven cobblestone streets causing us to bounce all over the bus (making it extremely difficult to keep our balance as most of us had to stand while riding due to lack of seats). After our turbulent ride, we finally arrived for our final study of Renaissance and Baroque artists in Italy. To end our time in Italy, my classmates, Professor Shaneyfelt, and I attended a final “farewell” dinner where we were able to enjoy great food and each others’ company, and wind down the program.
Friday, June 1
Today marks the end of my European adventures. Although I am very excited to be reunited with family and friends in America, saying goodbye to Italy and the friends I have made along the way makes my return a little bittersweet. I have had the most wonderful experience here in Europe where I have been able to intimately and personally experience firsthand the art that I have studied for my past three years at Vanderbilt. Based on my experience here, I wholeheartedly encourage everyone to partake in an abroad education if at all possible. While learning art from textbooks is one thing, actually seeing it in person and living in the environment it originated in (the hot bed of Italian Renaissance art), this has allowed me to experience and participate in the full potential of art’s power, and for that, I am most grateful for my time here in Italy.
Arrivederci!
-Jess
