Dec. 14, 2014
By Jerome Boettcher (Daily photos posted at the bottom of this blog)
Pura vida is the unofficial slogan for the country of Costa Rica. After spending the last two days in the cheerful Central American country we can see why.
Pura vida literally means “pure life.” To Costa Ricans the meaning extends father. Pura vida is eternal optimisim, a reminder to live life and be grateful for what you have  regardless of how much or little you have. Since landing in San Jose, Costa Rica on Saturday afternoon, we have experienced this first hand and in full force  from our wonderful host Lillian Solt at Clinica CEDCAS to our friendly bus driver Oscar to our smiling and excellent cook Marlem to our helpful travel guides Becca and Chello to people in the street who yell “Buenos Dias” as we trot by on our morning run, to neighborhood children who receive pure joy from playing “ball” with aluminum foil.
The 15 Vanderbilt student-athletes and support staff have been fortunate to witness this exuberant spirit. And we’ve been told to expect more smiling and grateful faces when we distribute shoes for the first time on Monday morning. So far, the service trip with Soles4Souls has been a blast  filled with history lessons, cultural experiences and glimpses of everyday life for Costa Ricans.
The group, which includes Baker Newman, Hannah Jumper, Vanessa Valentine, Taylor Hudson, Jake Van Geffen, Matt Cleveland, Mallory Schonk, Jill Doherty, Christiana Ogunsami, Shannon Morrish, Gabby Nesi, Skyler Carpenter and Megan Huebner, arrived in San Jose, the capital city of Costa Rica, around 1:15 p.m. on Saturday afternoon. It was a long travel day as the group, led by Soles4Souls Travel Manager Kelly Hoskins, pulled away from the McGugin Center headed for the airport back in Nashville at 4:15 a.m. Both flights were relatively smooth with slight turbulence on the trip out of Miami. En route to Costa Rica, the team saw picturesque views of the Gulf of Mexico and the Caribbean Sea, which glimmered in turquoise and darkish blue colors.
At the end of a three-hour flight, the crew descended into San Jose, greeted by lush, green hills and mountains. As we waited in line in customs, we were greeted by a traditional Tican greeting. A five-piece band got us into the festive mood with Christmas favorites, including “Little Drummer Boy.” Along with the band, there were two rather peculiar dancers. Both wore masks, with one in an elaborate dress and the other holding a foam microphone and wearing a delantal or apron.
The group had no issues getting through customs. Baggage claim also appeared to be a breeze as our bags were there waiting for us – except for one. Missing was a rogue suitcase that decided not to make the initial trip from Miami. As we waited for the luggage, which showed up about an hour later on the next flight from Miami, the group made the best of the delay, playing games.
When we left the airport, waiting for us outside was our host for the week, Lillian. After an attendant performed a Houdini act and somehow packed up Lillian’s van to the brim with our luggage, our driver, Oscar, pulled up. We loaded up his white van and made the 30-minute ride to our residence for the week, Clinica CEDCAS. Along the way, in a light drizzle, we saw various levels of economic growth  with heavy populated areas of warehouses and commercialism (McDonald’s and Denny’s lined the streets).
As we drove deeper into the province of Heredia and into Los Lagos, where the clinic is located, we began to see residential areas. Homes in Los Lagos, and in many parts of San Jose and Heredia, are very modest. Most bump up right next to the other and most all are gated with vehicles parked inside to avoid auto theft. Two-story homes are rare and some blocks have as many as eight homes to a side. Residents were very visible, with many walking the streets or heading to Saturday night mass.
We pulled into Clinica CEDCAS and were greeted by a three-story building. The Clinica CEDCAS, which, in Spanish, stands for Health Education and Health Care Center, was started in 1985 by Lillian, an American missionary who was born in Costa Rica. Lillian, a registered nurse and midwife, and those at the clinic provide whole-person health care that meet the economic needs of their patients in addition to working with rural and poor communities to help develop micro-enterprises.
But before Lillian would go into detail about the mission of Clinica CEDCAS and share her story later that night, the crew was greeted to a fantastic lunch. Chef Marlem, who also runs CEDCAS’ House of Health, served up a traditional pasado for our first meal. A pasado features black beans and rice, vegetables, plantains and a meat; on Saturday we had creamy chicken. It didn’t take long to tell that lunch was a hit  nobody was talking. Everyone was too busy eating. Then Marlem brought out dessert, which we would fine is common at every meal. For lunch, it was a Yipy bar, a chocolate wafer similar to a Kit Kat.
After wiping our plates clean, we took a couple hours to regroup and rest, and for some to get some much needed sleep after a long day, which was the culmination of a long final exams week for our students. During this break, we stood on the balcony on the third floor and watched fireworks being shot off by residents in celebration of Christmas and graduation. In Costa Rica this time of year, school has just ended and summer break is underway. Then, by 7, we were at it again  eating. Due to the delay at baggage claim we ate lunch later than expected so dinner wasn’t far behind. But we didn’t mind as Marlem made scrumptious spaghetti and meatballs. When dinner concluded, Kelly and Lillian both talked about their partnership, which began in 2010, as for Soles4Souls frequently brings groups down to Clinica CEDCAS. The team then called it an early night, looking forward to resting up and gearing toward their first full day in Costa Rica.
On Sunday morning, by 6:30 a.m., a handful of ambitious runners were up and at it and on the streets. To no one’s surprise, the cross country/track contingency (Vanessa, Hannah, Skyler, Megan and Jake) was off and running  along with football’s Taylor Hudson. The group logged six miles on a beautiful morning with temperatures already in the 50s and just missed a downpour of rain right before they started. The running proved to be contagious as Kelly, Baker, Mallory and Jill later went on a run after breakfast. On this fun, yet challenging, exploratory run, the group stumbled upon a park with outdoor exercise equipment and ventured across a bridge over a creek.
For breakfast, Marlem made scrambled eggs mixed with beans and rice. The beans and rice were leftover from dinner the night before and mixed back into breakfast as is the Costa Rican tradition, preventing from wasting food. Afterwards, Lillian exchanged currency with the students to prepare for the afternoon’s trip into the downtown San Jose marketplace. The colorful money, along with former presidents, features monkeys, sloths and sharks. Costa Rican currency is called colones and one American dollar is equivalent to 500 colones.
Around mid-morning, the group received a history lesson. Benjamin Odio and his wife, Damela, stopped by to teach us about Costa Rica. Benjamin received his master’s in Central American Studies and provided an informative session about Costa Rica. He began talking about how the country was formed. Tetonic movement and volcanism led to the rise of these small islands. About three million years ago those small islands finally connected with North and South America, creating present day Central America. Volcanoes are still very much a part of Costa Rica as the country is home to more than 100, including nine active volcanoes. In fact, Volcano Irazu can be seen from the clinic’s third-floor balcony on a clear day.
Benjamin then talked about the significance of the Costa Rican Revolution. After World War I, owners of coffee and banana plantations – the two biggest crops in Costa Rica  began to exploit their workers for cheap labor. This oppression spread throughout the country and the gap between the wealthy class and working class grew. In addition, the pro-government representatives rigged the presidential election of 1948. As a result of “group of intellectuals” rose up, including Benjamin’s grandfather. Calling it a “simple war,” Benjamin said the Costa Rica Civil War lasted only five weeks and 1,000 lives were lost. Led by commander Jose Figueres, the government was overthrown, and the Costa Rican military was abolished, which is still the case today.
After lunch of stir fry and noodles, the group went into town thanks to the guidance of Becca, Lillian’s daughter, and her husband, Chello. First, we visited the Museo Nacional de Costa Rica, the country’s national museum. The museum, which included a beautiful butterfly garden and a courtyard with scenic views on the top floor, is located in an old military base. In fact, Figueres struck the brick wall with a symbolic gesture in 1949 when he smashed a hammer into it, signaling the end of the military. The museum covered thousands of years of Costa Rican history, displaying evidence of the first indigenous people more than 12,000 years ago before Spanish settlers arrived in the 16th century.
Once the group was done touring the wide halls and the houses of the first and second commanders, they headed toward the Mercado Calle – the marketplace on Market Street. Any wooden craft, T-shirt, beaded purse, woven poncho or jewelry could be found here. And vendors were eager to sell, often willing to haggle. As the shopping wound down, outside the market, Jake made new friends. With three neighborhood children, he played a version of hand soccer with an aluminum foil ball as the kids tried to throw the ball through wide tree goalposts. When all the shopping was done, we headed back to Clinica briefly to pick up Lillian and then went off to Rostipollos, a restaurant with great roasted chicken, guacamole, beans and cheesy potato bites.
After dinner, it was back to the clinic, where Kelly engaged everyone in a fun icebreaker game. Everyone wrote down one thing no one here knows about them and everyone had to guess whose it was. We learned Christiana has Nigerian royalty on her grandmother’s side and that Jill took juggling lessons and that Megan raised a baby barn owl hatchling back in California. The group stayed up for a couple more hours playing games, such as charades, but then turned in early, anxiously awaiting Monday when they will get to experience their first shoe distribution.
A traditional Tica greeting awaited the Soles4Souls crew as it headed toward customs. A five-piece band played Christmas songs as dancers with plastic masks danced around.
We’ve arrived in San Jose, Costa Rica! From left to right, bottom row: Baker Newman, Vanessa Valentine, Hannah Jumper, Mallory Schonk, Jill Doherty, Shannon Morrish, Skyler Carpenter; top row: Taylor Hudson, Megan Huebner, Matt Cleveland, Jake Van Geffen, Christiana Ogunsami, Gabby Nesi.
Our home for the week  Clinicas CEDCAS in Los Lagos, Heredia, Costa Rica.
Clinica CEDCAS was started in 1985 by Lillian Solt. The non-profit organization provides affordable, whole-person health care, including family medicine, dental care, optometry and physical therapy, to meet the economic needs of their patients.
View of Los Lagos from the third floor balcony of Clinica CEDCAS. On a clear day, the peak of Volcano Irazu can be seen. (Photo by Taylor Hudson)
View from Taylor Hudson and Baker Newman’s room. (Photo by Taylor Hudson)
Eating our first meal, cooked and served by fabulous chef Marlem, at Clinica CEDCAS.
Our first meal was a traditional Costa Rican dish called a pasado, which includes black beans and rice, vegetables, plantains and a meat – chicken for lunch. It was the first of many delicious meals prepared by Marlem, who also runs the House of Health down the street.
Assistant AD for Marketing Allison Frazee holds up a Yipy bar, a chocolate wafer bar similiar to a Kit Kat.
After lunch, the group rushed up to the balcony on the third floor to watch fireworks being shot off for Christmas/graduation as summer break is officially underway in Heredia.
Mallory Schonk, Shannon Morrish, Christiana Ogunsami and Taylor Hudson take in the view before dinner on Saturday night.
Our fabulous and gracious host for the week, Lillian Solt, with our wonderful trip leader, Soles4Souls Travel Manager Kelly Hoskins.
Kelly encouraged the group to bring school supplies, personal hygiene items, toys, balls, coloring books, crayons and games to distribute along with the shoes. And the team responded by filling their extra carry-on bags full of gifts for the children!
Bright and early at 6:30 a.m. on Sunday, several ambitious souls hit the streets of Los Lagos for a run, right after a strong morning rain. The cross country/track crew of Megan Huebner, Vanessa Valentine, Hannah Jumper, Skyler Carpenter and Jake Van Geffen, along with football’s Taylor Hudson strolled around the neighborhood and took in breath-taking views. (Photo by Taylor Hudson)
Yes, Shannon, that’s a lot of colones. After breakfast, Lillian exchanged currency before the group headed into downtown San Jose for some shopping later in the day.
Baker flashes some Costa Rican cash. One American dollar is equivalent to 500 colones.
After breakfast, Benjamin Odio (second from left in top row) came by to teach the group about the history of Costa Rica, including the formation of the volcanic country and the pivotal Costa Rican Revolution in 1948.
The Museo Nacional de Costa Rica, formerly a military base before the Costa Rican Revolution, delves into pre-Columbian history more than 12,000 years ago well before Spanish settlers arrived in the 16th century.
The view of San Jose from atop the Museo Nacional de Costa Rica.
Hannah, Gabby, Shannon and Mallory take in the butterfly garden at Museo Nacional de Costa Rica.
After visiting the museum, we explored the Mercado Calle market, which proved to a bustling shopping adventure with vendors very eager to haggle and sell their arts, crafts and merchandise.
Vanessa mulls over a potential purchase.
Jakes makes some new friends as he competes in aluminum foil hand soccer (not sure of the actual title) with neighborhood children outside the market.
Jake with teammate Dixie after an exciting game.
Skyler plays patty cake with her new friend.
Our first meal out was dinner at Rostipollos restaurant. And, you guessed it, they served delcious roasted chicken along with guacomole, beans and tasty cheese/potato bites.
After dinner we returned to Clinica CEDCAS and Kelly challenged the group to come up one thing that no one here knows about them. Who knew Megan raised a baby barn owl hatchling or that Christiana’s grandmother’s side of the family is linked to Nigerian royalty or Jill took juggling lessons?
Matt, Megan and Taylor are the last people standing in a staring contest game? Still not sure what that was but the grouped played a variety of games, including charades, for a couple hours before turning in early after a fun day with a rewarding day ahead of them on Monday.
